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By Benjamin Malcolm
Walking from end to end of the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel's Towers
Deluxe Suite is akin to a journey along the Chao Phraya River itself.
You head into the lounge at first, the sitting area of your Towers
Deluxe Suite and gaze southward. In the distance, you see the Taksin
Bridge and the river winding down to the sea. You leave this room,
stroll along the soft carpeting to the adjoining bedroom and are
treated to another angle, the Chao Phraya heading north, toward
Chinatown. You could almost spend an entire day in this suite, wandering
from end to end and gazing at the traffic and the city below, safe
and snug high above Bangkok.
I spent several days recently in Room 2617, the bottom level of
the three Towers floors. The Towers rooms are part of the "hotel
within a hotel" concept of Sheraton, in which business people
and other discerning guests can choose a more personalized form
of service, a step up from the "basic" room within what
is already a very comfortable hotel.
It is a testament to the Royal Orchid Sheraton's design that it
commands such a sweeping view of the river from its location near
River City on the eastern bank of the river. In point of fact, every
guest can see the Chao Phraya; it is impossible to get a room that
doesn't. Because of the Sheraton's unique Y-shaped design, all 740
rooms command their own breathtaking river views.
I settled into my room late one afternoon, slowly making the rounds
of the niceties available to me, setting up my laptop and helping
myself to some instant coffee. Little do I know that I can wander
to the nearby Towers Lounge and get a fresh-brewed cup of coffee,
cappuccino, or even espresso, available at any point up to the closing
time of 10:30 pm The lounge, I soon come to understand, is available
for my use, with many willing attendants all too eager to help with
whatever my needs of the moment might be.
I'd like to get to my writing but there's still plenty for me to
explore in my chambers. There's an assortment of current magazines
and a copy of both the Bangkok Post and International Herald Tribune.
I dawdle as I scan the headlines. A fresh bowl of fruit lies not
far away and comes with a pamphlet explaining the vagaries of Thai
fruit (useful for any first-timer to the country). This fruit is
not just a perk of my check-in; each day, Towers residents are given
a fresh bowl of fruit to go along with their morning newspaper (hung
outside the door before breakfast).
A letter has been slipped under my door, which explains this and
other exclusive services in the Towers. I'm impressed with all that's
been thought of for the convenience of this "hotel within a
hotel."
Along with the daily bowl of fruit and newspaper, I can expect
an hour's use of the lounge's internet (hi-speed broadband connection),
local fax service, six complimentary pieces of laundry a day (and
shoe shine if I'd like), a complimentary continental breakfast (my
choice of the lounge or room service) and an exclusive cocktail
hour every afternoon. The hotel asks that I dress respectfully for
the lounge, especially for the period after 5 p.m. That seems a
small favour to ask for such an abundance of service.
But then cocktails are still hours away.
I flip on the TV and scroll through the options, checking out movies
("Master and Commander" and "Irreconcilable Differences"
are both available ... maybe some other time) and then TV channels.
I settle on the BBC and let the TV voice echo in the background
as I continue my investigation, moving through all the chambers
of my suite, through doors that lead into a separated bathroom,
shower area and toilet, basking in the knowledge that I have days
to enjoy this, to get comfortable in these exclusive environs.
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The bedroom is spacious and airy and there is a copious amount
of closet space and an assortment of robes and slippers that I mentally
mark off for relaxing in late in the evening. A good deal of thought
has been put into, of all things, the pillow selection and a card
on one bedroom table lists out six kinds of headrest for me to choose
from - healthy (soft and hard rubber), rubber, micro-fibre, goose
feather/down and non-allergic. Another pamphlet details out my bedding,
a "Sheraton Sweet Sleeper" concept that uses the pillows,
a duvet, three sheets, a down blanket and 11 inch mattress for what
should be a healthy sleep.
I press hibernate on my computer and decide that exercise, not
sleep, is what this writer needs.
It is in the lobby where I can see the first of the many renovations
that the hotel has been through, a complete redesign from a large
open area to a lounge space backed by a wooden wall-section. Interspersed
throughout the wall, backlit, are golden royal barges, a metal gong
and other elegant decor. The interior designer has created an impressive
atmosphere for the welcoming area of the hotel, sophisticated and
comfortable.
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The Royal Orchid Sheraton began restoration 2 years ago, beginning
with the lobby. The 1,078 square metre Royal Orchid Ballroom, with
cutting-edge audio-visual system and beyond-contemporary lighting,
is the latest upgrade and this room can host upwards of 1,500 delegates
at a time. The entire second floor has been redesigned as a dedicated
conference area to better serve the meeting and conference clientele
(a sizeable piece of the Sheraton's customer mix). With all these
improvements to the meeting area, it is little wonder that the Royal
Orchid Sheraton Hotel was the venue for APEC meetings in October
last year.
I must head toward the river to find the fully-refurbished health
club (another beneficiary of the restoration) and adjoining pool
area. There are two pools at the Sheraton. The "Garden of Portugal"
Pool, which is surrounded by a meandering jogging track, is popular
with guests during the daytime and is technically on land leased
from the Portuguese embassy through a "Gentlemen's Agreement."
The second 25-metre lap pool lies directly opposite the fitness
centre. Both pools are full in the late afternoon, with guests lounging
or taking lazy laps in the chlorinated waters.
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I opt for a quick workout and I am transported back to my Washington
DC-health club days. This all-new health club at the Royal Orchid
Sheraton Hotel has an excellent selection of the latest Cybex equipment
(treadmills, bicycles, weights, etc.) with headphones and a TV remote.
After a good 40 minutes of the exercise bike and a cooling drink
of lemongrass juice, I enter the sizeable sauna in the dressing
room, a large wooden chamber that could seemingly act as part of
the conference centre. The Sheraton provides huge white towels for
guests, perfect to lounge in the sauna or to lay by the pool. I
have the sauna to myself and I soak in this vast chamber's humidity
for twenty minutes before I realize how hungry I've become.
Fortunately, the Towers Happy Hour is just beginning.
The cocktail hour in the Towers Lounge is a lot more than a "red
wine and cheese" affair and it is clear that the hotel's culinary
creativity is allowed free rein with the hors d'oeuvres. Each day's
happy hour comes with a bevy of drink choices (even the aforementioned
fresh coffee) and an array of wonderful treats to whet your appetite
for dinner, served in buffet style as you linger over the sunset
and watch the hectic traffic below.
The traffic in the lounge, truth be told, can be hectic as well,
as fellow floor-mates of this exclusive area meet and mingle over
cocktails and casual conversation. Among the temptations I indulge
in on my first visit are green mussels with ginger and lime butter,
deep fried minced prawn and water chestnut wrapped in tofu leaves
and the "usuals," jars of marinated feta cheese cubes,
cornichons, baccacelli baby mozzarella, kalamata and green olives.
The only thing surprising about the abundance of choice is that
it is repeated in earnest each successive night, a treat for any
food connoisseur.
I sit for over an hour, enjoying the bubbling company about me,
the geniality of the host staff, who appear offering frequent refills,
and the view from out the window, which again is captivating. But
once the darkness has slipped over the city and the river below
becomes a pattern of twinkling lights and vast black moving shapes,
I suddenly feel the urge for a quick swim.
Returning once again to the ground floor, I head to the cooling
waters of the pool on what is a windy, humid night. I look up at
the red glow of the Sheraton sign far above me and then float in
the waters, enjoying the luxury of the Royal Orchid Sheraton, which,
from my top room in the Towers to the bottom floor of the lobby,
displays a knowledge of comfort and style second to none.
As for my writing? Well, I guess that will just have to wait until
tomorrow.
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