|
In March 2002, Harry and Susan Usher departed on an adventure that
would take them to the little known Emerald Isles, a labyrinth of
islands shrouded in mystery and intrigue located 1000 miles from
mainland India in the middle of the Andaman Sea. Sailing on their
yacht, Eos, the 400-mile voyage from Phuket to the Andaman and Nicobar
Group took four days. Harry related to us some of his lasting impressions
from their four week adventure in paradise.
“We were attracted to the Andaman Islands initially because
of their proximity to our base in Phuket and the fact they are Indian
territory where you have the best of India in a low-key, island
culture and community. There is very little crime and the governing
body is proud of its untouched islands, beaches and clean sea -
this has been achieved by preventing over development and limiting
offshore trawling.”
These colourful islands form part of the Andaman and Nicobar Group
lying in the Andaman Sea/Bay of Bengal at 12 degrees North and 92
degrees East - the Nicobars are out of bounds to tourists.
 |
|
‘The Islands are steeped in beauty, culture, history….
and food! Beauty in the form of pristine beaches lined with huge
hardwood trees over 184 islands, untarnished coral and marine life
in 20m+ visibility and Indian people in colourful dress. The islands
are aptly named “Little India” as Hindu, Tamil, Bengali,
Malayalis and Sikh live harmoniously beside members of the Muslim
and Christian faiths, Karen people from Burma and four Negrito aboriginal
tribes. In the administrative center of Port Blair, several streets
have active mosques, churches and Hindu and Buddhist temples in
a row. The historical significance of the Islands stems from the
penal colony which was set up by the Indian-British government in
the mid 1800s to accommodate the criminals and mainland Freedom
Fighters for Indian Independence. The food in the Andamans, which
may be regarded as part of the culture, is worthy of a special mention.
Fresh samosas, chicken musala, pratha, roti, curries and an abundance
of fresh fish and vegetables kept our bellies full and cravings
satisfied - we were able to catch enough fresh coral and pelagic
fish for “the pot”, each day!’
Much of the history of the Andaman Islands is unknown and scholars
can only speculate as to how and when they became inhabited. The
islands were initially colonised by Lt. Archibald Blair in 1789
while he was undertaking a survey of the Andaman Sea on behalf of
the East India Company. He returned in 1790 to set up a small penal
settlement at Port Cornwallis, now Port Blair, on South Andaman
Island. This was subsequently moved to Diglipur in 1792 under instruction
from Commander Cornwallis, brother of the Governor General of India
at the time, Lord Cornwallis. Due the hostile environment and sickness,
this was closed in 1796 and the community repatriated.
|
|
|
The British government returned about sixty years later in 1858
with 200 Indian prisoners and completed a new jail on Viper island,
close to Port Blair, in 1867. Problems with water, malaria, escapees,
conflicts with the indigenous people and the increase in prisoners
resulted in the construction of the dreaded Cellular Jail in 1896.
This was during the War of Indian Independence and was specifically
built to hold political prisoners - by 1881, there were about 14,000
prisoners. This new jail was completed in 1906 and continued in
operation until closure in 1945. The remains of it are now a National
Museum paying tribute to the brave Freedom Fighters who fought for
independence from Britain. With the advent of Indian Independence
in 1947, displaced people were allowed to return to their home countries,
however many stayed under the lure of various rehabilitation schemes
launched by the new administration.
During the British occupancy, administration headquarters were
established in grand colonial style on Ross Island, close to Port
Blair, but were evacuated during Japanese occupation in 1942 when
18,000 Japanese soldiers were based on the islands.
Now the islands have their own Resident Commissioner in charge
of a bustling administrative center in Port Blair. The 1981 population
census listed the total population at 188,741 (the Andamans 158,287
and the Nicobars 30,454) however this may have increased as the
islands are now used as a joint Indian navy and airforce training
center.
|
|
The population of the Islands today can be broadly divided into
three categories, namely the aborigines, the descendants of convicts
and political prisoners and public servants. Four aboriginal tribes
have inhabited the islands for thousands of years and still live
a hunter-gatherer type of protected existence. The Onge live on
Little Andaman Island, the Great Andamanese on Strait Island, the
Jarawas populate the western coast of South and Middle Andaman and
the Sentinelese occupy the North Sentinels. The common misconception,
that travellers are likely to encounter primitive clans of lean
naked spear-wielding tribesmen, will disappoint amateur anthropologists,
as the areas, which are still occupied by the tribes, are strictly
off limits to tourists. Today there is little contact between the
tribes and the outside world. Perhaps this is a small price to pay
to preserve the unique customs of these interesting people. Their
lifestyles are well illustrated in the Anthropological Museum in
Port Blair.
Sadly, the Great Andamanese race is on the brink of extinction.
In a census conducted back in 1991 their numbers stood at a meagre
31. The establishment of the penal colony brought the Andamanese
into direct confrontation with the colonial settlers. Modern firepower
was too strong for native bows and arrows resulting in the deaths
of hundreds of warriors in the Battle of Aberdeen, fought on 17
May 1859.
Over the years, the convergence of divergent cultural, social and
linguistic backgrounds have evolved into a unique cultural pot-pourri
full of colour, vibrancy and charm.
The Andaman Islands’ economy relies strongly on agriculture;
mainly spices, coconuts, potatoes and rice. Harry enthused, “they
grow some of the tastiest potatoes I’ve ever eaten.” One
of the only environmentally sensitive practices in the Islands spurs
the largest export market; plywood. The large hardwood forests are
logged selectively on a small scale, by hard manual labour, no chainsaws
only axes, double-ended bush-saws and elephants trained to move
the felled trunks. High quality grade plywood for construction and
boat building is exported to western countries. Fishing and tourism
have been slowly creeping into the equation and will likely bring
about an economic uplift to the territory, as more islands become
open to foreign tourists. Commercial fishing is limited and prohibited
within three miles of the shore and this surely protects the immaculate
conditions of the reefs and the abundance of colourful marine life.
With the enormous 281.50 sq. km. Wandoor National Marine Park comprising
of a maze of pristine islands, the Andamans scream with eco-tourism
potential. Unfortunately, or fortunately, only two of these islands
are accessible to tourists for conservation reasons. The coral reefs
that abound the marine park have been described as the “triumphant
achievement of coral polyps.” Hence, this fragile eco-system,
so abused in other parts of the world, remains untouched, hosting
an immensely diverse range of marine life in crystal-clear waters.
Diving is only allowed with a registered dive company unless special
permission has been granted by the Commissioner.
|
|
On land, more than 92% of the geographical area is blanketed with
tropical forests filled with evergreens, the largest of which average
a height of 42 metres. Roaming the forest floors are spotted deer,
Andaman wild pigs, civets, shrews and elephants to name a few mammals.
A rich avi-faunal diversity attracts bird watchers; as many as 246
species and sub species of birds inhabit the islands. Another factor
contributing to the unsullied condition of the environment is quite
unique as Harry explained, “one of the most impressive aspects
of the islands’ management is that the use of plastic bags
is entirely illegal. Purchased goods are wrapped in biodegradable
brown paper, which spares the land and seas.”
Reaching the Andaman Islands from Phuket is easiest by boat. Travellers
need to arrange a six month Indian visa, with a one month restricted
pass for the Andamans, at a cost of THB 3,000. On arrival at Port
Blair, the only point of entry, yachts must give the harbourmaster
their intended itinerary. Passengers will then be informed of the
areas that are out of bounds. Yachts are expected to report their
positions daily by radio. There are regular flights and ship passages
to and from Calcutta and Chennai (Madras) and it is understood that
the airport is to be upgraded to International status, as the current
Administration is active in encouraging eco-friendly tourists to
visit their beautiful islands
“It is an amazing place, full of colour and character. The
people are friendly and welcoming, the environment is beautiful
and the culture and history are fascinating. This was our second
trip and we would like to return. The Resident Commissioner has
agreed to a boat rally to the Islands from Phuket scheduled for
February 2003.
Details are available on www.andamansearally.com
|
