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By Benjamin Malcolm
The restaurants that are the most memorable are those that combine
culinary and architectural creativeness into one complete package.
With their dual emphasis on food and interior design, these places
appeal not only to a diner's particular gastronomical desire, but
to an overall feeling of relaxation and comfort.
Such is the case with Chiang Mai's Saenkham Terrace Restaurant.
At first glance, a fancy restaurant in the midst of a condo unit
on the outskirts of the city; at second glance, a unique contribution
to the art of mixing food and aesthetics, with an emphasis on interior
design and "terrace" concept.
Owners Somjed Srithongkham and Wanpen Sakdatorn set out for a complete
re-design of their restaurant less than a year ago, replacing a
rather fancy and yet ordinary dining room with a brand-new Northern-style
art and food combination.
"It was really Wanpen's concept," said Srithongkham,
"She wanted to renovate the whole restaurant into Lanna style."
The main emphasis in this Lanna style is the emphasis of the terrace
- popular among the wooden houses of the north. Traditionally, the
terrace area in Northern Thai architecture is the main area of the
house in which family members can relax, dine and even take an afternoon
siesta. Thus, for Saenkham, the terrace is the focal point.
It is obvious upon climbing the stairs to the second-floor restaurant
that you're in for something different, as the stair banister is
constructed completely of rattan, a soft guide for the hands as
you climb away from the heat of the day into the air-conditioned
wooden confines of the main dining area.
Much attention has been paid to making people feel relaxed and
both owners maintain an active presence to ensure the smooth sailing
of the restaurant. On the day I visited, I met the stylishly dressed
Sakdatorn, in northern Thai dress and head scarf, who greeted us
and conversed about the changes and features of the restaurant.
Visitors have their choice of dining either inside or out on the
balconies. Either way, they're treated to a spectacular range of
scenery; - rice fields heading off into the distance before the
looming presence of Doi Suthep, the temple mountain that overlooks
Chiang Mai. On the other side are the tennis courts and swimming
pool of Ban Naifan; the vast white walled condominium complex that
houses the restaurant.
Art, and the craftwork of the north, are everywhere.
"This is the meaning of terrace in Lanna … people used the
terrace for weaving and basketry," explained Srithongkham.
Interior Designer Yutthana Mohprasit has made the most of this,
delicately incorporating the feel of the traditions of the north
in and about. A black and gold painting by Vichit Chaiwong (of nearby
Gong Dee Gallery), over the main entrance to the dining room, displays
the elegance of Thai textiles, while other artwork, by Santi Channongsuang,
depicts Lanna people and their close relationship with basketry
and weaving.
The architecture of temples figures prominently in the restaurant's
design. The exterior walls borrow from Thai temple design, while
the white ceiling and roof borrow from Lanna temple style.
The architecture is one attraction; the other is the food.
The bill of fare features an array of about 120 dishes overall,
with a strong portion of central Thai, northern Thai, and fish dishes.
My dining partner and I tried three of the house favourites - an
appetizer of fried Shitake mushrooms and main entrees of Burmese-style
pork curry and fried asparagus with shrimp. The mushrooms come with
a special three-flavoured sauce, combining garlic, lime, and chilies
with other secret ingredients and they were delicious. The pork
curry, one of the four-starred entrees, was thick and creamy, perfect
over a bowl of white rice.
The food is served on terra cotta pottery, dishes and plates, over
a silk tablecloth. The metal utensils are sturdy, heavy, metal and
silver specialty items made exclusively for the restaurant from
a crafts shop in Singburi.
Details are everything here; everything, even the bathrooms, have
been upgraded and made luxurious.
The other standout quality is price. For all its attentions to
detail and food preparation, the cost has been kept to a reasonable
level. All entrees are around 90 Baht (except for the higher-end
fish dishes).
House specialties are starred in the menu and run the gamut from
appetizers to entrees, from river fish to Northern sausage.
Among the appetizers are the Vietnamese Spring Rolls and the Thai-style
papaya salad with fried pork or beef; while the entrees include
lemongrass salad, spicy herbs salad and northern mushroom in chili
paste curry. Fish favourites include fried sheat fish with garlic,
spicy deep-fried minced catfish salad and the steamed sea bass.
To top it off, there are an interesting variety of local ice creams,
including jackfruit, tarot, pandan and fan palm.
I chose jackfruit and lingered over it, enjoying its creamy sweetness
while talking to Sakdatorn and enjoying the comfort from the hot
afternoon, not wanting to head home too soon from the tasty delights
and grand confines of this unique northern restaurant.
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