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By Kit C. Cauw
In Buddhist mythology, the Naka was a seven-headed cobra who stood
watch over the Buddha as he attained enlightenment, sheltering him
from malevolent beasts, tempests and monsoon rains. Throughout South-East
Asia, statues depict the Buddha in seated meditation, resting comfortably
on the Naka's coiled body, the creature's massive hoods and seven
heads providing a formidable canopy. It is clear to see why nothing
cared to disturb Prince Siddhartha in this particular setting.
Naka Flavor's, on the road between Patong and Kamala on the west
coast of Phuket, provides the same sense of security and serenity
as its namesake, though without fangs or hoods. The restaurant is
set on the mountainside across from Nakalay Beach and the luxurious
Tavorn Beach Village Resort. After climbing the hill, guests enter
Naka Flavor's by descending a curved stairway that effectively shuts
out the exterior world. The restaurant waits at the bottom, a nave
of sandstone and flora with a cool blue swimming pool at its centre.
High above the road and its traffic, one could easily fall into
trance here.
Instead, contrary to the ascetism of Buddhist teachings, my girlfriend
and I have arrived to feast, to indulge in the many flavours of
the Naka. It is thus our pleasure to find the tranquil setting enlivened
by the bright sounds of French jazz singers and the hospitality
of the owners, Cathy and Arkom Polyiam.
When I mentioned to a friend that I would dine here, he said, "That's
the place with the French chef from Laos."
I shook my head. "Actually, I think he's Thai."
"No. No. It's a French guy. Only he lived in Laos. They used
to run that restaurant down in Rawai, The Wall. Great food."
Now that I've met Arkom, who has not even the faintest touch of
French blood, I have to chuckle to myself. He is as distinctively
Thai as papaya salad. When I tell him what my friend said, he laughs.
"Most guests imagine the chef will have a big belly and a mustache.
They laugh when I come out and surprise them!"
A table has been set for us poolside, where we can out gaze up
at the stars and out through the gardens, but the clouds snuff out
the celestial bodies and rain pelts down with enough determination
that we decide to eat inside, which is still al fresco, with open
walls and sandstone columns. The raindrops dance on the surface
of the lighted pool and the rich smell of ozone waltzes with waves
of kitchen aromas. Chef Arkom excuses himself to return to his kingdom
of flavour while Cathy joins us for an introduction.
"I don't want to tell you too much, I would rather let the
food speak for itself," she says. Then she makes my evening
by adding, "We have decided to prepare your dinner for you,
you don't need to order anything."
There's such freedom in turning the agony of decision-making over
to someone I can trust. Not only does this make me feel especially
pampered, it invites the element of surprise. Will they bring out
the lamb or the chicken? The oysters or the scallops? Of course,
one can't do this in just any restaurant. Putting ones dining choices
in the hands of another is an expression of faith. It only really
works at the finest of kitchens.
Cathy Polyiam is originally from Brittany, France. She insists
that Naka Flavor's is not fusion cuisine but French food with a
Thai touch. Chef Arkom's cooking uses a very classic French base
to which he adds Thai flavors from his home province of Roi Et,
in the northeastern region, where spices are sharper, more piquant
than those of central Thai, less curry-based than those of the South.
All of the produce is organically grown, all their sauces and dressings
are homemade, the herbs fresh and most of the smoked fish and meat
are done right here. In the near future, Arkom will begin smoking
his own salmon as well, using coconut shells and Thai herbs which
will impart the fish a taste that one cannot find anywhere else.
Because of his dependence upon only the freshest of ingredients
and his creativity as a chef, the menu changes very frequently.
Red snapper may be fresh today, but barracuda could be the catch
of tomorrow. Fruits and vegetables come in and out of season and
supply. Cathy uses a blackboard to write up the menu saying that
it is too much trouble to print new ones every day. "Ours is
the only menu on Phuket that comes to you on wheels," she adds
with a smile. In high season, however, she will have to go back
to more traditional menus. "There's no way I can get the chalkboard
around fast enough when the restaurant is full."
Dinner begins with a basket of three kinds of French bread, including
garlic toast. After a delicious taster of spicy chicken spring rolls
and a well-timed break, the appetizers arrive. Laab Smoked Salmon
Davidoff and homemade smoked duck. Both dishes are presented with
elegance and flair, garnished with precisely sliced Granny Smith
apples cut to resemble jungle plants. Laid out on a bed of fresh
basaltic vinaigrette, the duck looks like a flower, the slices radiating
from a carved tomato in the centre like petals. The laab, a salad
of diced smoked salmon, scallions, toasted rice powder, dried chilies,
lime and in this case, dill, is served rolled up in larger slices
of smoked salmon. I have eaten laab in many varieties, made with
pork, duck, chicken and catfish, but I never would have believed
that one could make it with smoked salmon since both the salad fixings
and the fish have strong flavours. It would be very easy to get
this wrong, which makes it all the more impressive that Chef Arkom
has captured the perfect balance, allowing all flavours a voice
yet keeping them in line, ensuring that none dominate the others.
The crisp, sweet, slightly sour apples prove excellent counterpoints
to both dishes. As the plates are taken away, I am left wondering
how our hosts can possibly top this course.
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The entrees are works of art, my tower of red snapper stuffed with
crab and shrimp in a tangerine white wine sauce; her tiger prawns
in cognac lobster sauce, with a spinach and mushroom filling. As
I admire the beauty of my repast, I am fearful of taking the first
bite for the knowledge that it leads all too quickly to the last
morsel. I'm debating whether to cut daintily around the edges of
my food to preserve its gorgeous presentation or whether to go straight
for its heart. Finally, using Tibetan sand paintings as a guide,
thinking of how their intricate patterns and images are scattered
to individual grains just as soon as they are completed, I dig in,
combining the fish, shrimp, crab and sauce all together in one delicious,
remorseless bite.
Truly exquisite dining brings me back to the bliss of my childhood,
when my parents would frequently laugh affectionately at the way
I hummed over my favourite foods. In the middle of a particularly
gorgeous bite of stuffed snapper, I notice Cathy smiling over at
me and realize that I have been humming out loud. I could feel embarrassed,
but her look is complicit rather than condescending; she has eaten
her husband's cooking, she knows the feeling.
Dinner concludes on a sensational note with Crepes Suzette. Chef
Arkom has carved the top section of a pineapple, draped the leaves
of its top with strings of rock sugar caramel and lit it with a
sparkler. The crepe itself is flanked by two halves of a luscious
ripe mango and topped with a scoop of homemade Mangosteen ice cream.
When we have finished, Arkom and Cathy sit down to join us for
cups of Siam Herb Tea, made with lemongrass, turmeric and ginger.
I thank them both for choosing our dinners for us.
"I never order prawns in Phuket," I say. "They're
always mealy and flavourless. But these were superb."
Our hosts nod in agreement. Arkom says, "That is why we buy
only the freshest seafood. We shop at the local markets and buy
only small amounts so that it stays that way. This is another reason
that I appreciate it when customers make reservations. It makes
it much easier for me to plan for an evening, much easier to provide
the best service."
Just last week, Cathy and Chef Arkom opened another outlet for
their fine cuisine, the A La Carte "food gallery" in Kamala.
Here, their home-smoked meats and fish, their homemade sauces and
dressings, quiches, sandwiches and other gourmet delicacies are
available for take out. The shop will also serve as their base for
catering. "You invite, we do the party" is their motto.
With food and hospitality like this, any party catered by Cathy
and Arkom will most certainly be the hit of the season. This is,
quite simply, one of the finest kitchens I have ever visited, anywhere,
one which boldly succeeds in balancing the creative infusion of
interesting local flavours with one of the most hallowed of cooking
traditions. Naga Flavor's is not a merely a restaurant, it is a
chapel of fine dining pleasure.
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