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By Sofia Rays
I believe I have missed the turn off. I wouldn't want to miss this
dinner for anything. Winding down the hills of Karon, where the
roads go up and down hill like a roller coaster. It is not an easy
task, driving and having to read signboards at the same time. Finally
to my left, I can see it, lights shining in the dark and a signboard
announcing 'Le Meridien Phuket Beach Resort'.
Walking through the reception area, a feeling of infinity overcomes
me. The space is vast and I could be anywhere in the world, if not
for the tiny details of orchids and salas everywhere to remind me
that I am in Thailand. Today is a special day for us. We have been
invited to dine at Portofino, the Italian restaurant of the Meridien.
Tucked between the hotel's Japanese and seafood restaurants, Portofino's
interior d?cor reminded me of popular restaurants in Italy. The
colours here are subtle, the furniture looks old and comfortable,
the smells are inviting. We decide to sit outside where a huge swimming
pool that extends down to the sandy beach meets the restaurant's
outdoor sitting area. To my right, under a great Sala is yet another
restaurant and in front of me a glass of chilled white wine.
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The Chef comes and greets us with a 'Buona Sera', good evening
in Italian, and I can't help but notice how young he looks. It could
be the hat, I think, and although I have been perusing the menu
for some time, I surrender and ask him to recommend something to
eat. 'Do you like fish?' he asks, and we nod. 'How about macaroni?'
We nod again. He recommends the Lobster salad with cocktail sauce
and avocado tartare for our appetizer, the homemade macaroni with
Sicilian sauce, eggplant and mozzarella for a main course and asks
if that is alright. I tell him that my partner is not so fond of
eggplant, whereupon he unperturbedly suggests fettuccine with porcini
mushroom and veal. We all nod with enthusiasm and he excuses himself
back to his creative den.
Outside, while waiting for the appetizer, we receive a small surprise.
A plate arrives with two slices of bread covered by a red-pinkish
coloured dip, courtesy of the chef. I will never find out what that
was, and it did not last on my plate for long. Savouring the flavours,
I realized that this was going to be a memorable experience.
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The waiters arrive with three huge plates that contain our appetizers.
The spread was a feast of colours, the red of the finely chopped
tomato, covering the pink and white of the lobster, the avocado
donating a tinge of green. The combination of these simple ingredients
with the more sophisticated lobster create a harmonious taste, so
fine that it is hard to resist. The cocktail sauce dotted around
the plate adds a unique flavour to the dish. But I have to restrain
myself. I figure 'if this appetizer tastes so good, then the dessert
will probably be exquisite, and owning the sweet tooth that I do,
I cannot afford to miss out on the treat, considering also that
I still have to eat the main course.'
The main course of pasta is served after a short interval long
enough to allow the lobster to settle and our taste buds to move
on to a different taste level. The macaroni is indeed home made,
the sauce rich and delicious and the generous grating of parmesan
cheese smells divine. Although I am engrossed into my own plate
-the wine has made its way to my head already and I become equally
interested in my partner's dish. The veal is perfect, releasing
its flavour of herbs onto my palette. The mushrooms are crisp and
the entire dish is simply delicious.
Another round to go and this is what I have been waiting for all
evening. The Chef declares that he will surprise us with dessert
and I try not to bite my nails in anticipation. Instead, I allow
myself to enjoy the show at the restaurant next door. It's Latino
night and the troupe of dancers is really sweating it out on the
floor.
A while later another waiter arrives with a tray balancing three
glazed ceramic bowls. It seems something hot is captured within,
for he tests the bowls before touching them. A dark crust on top
conceals the egg yellow dessert below and as I put the first spoon
into my mouth I detect the presence of alcohol. Chef explains that
there is porto vino in the Sabayon that we are eating. Not in the
least concerned about who is going to drive back home tonight, I
dip into the dessert. I combine some of the crust with its spongy
under layer and the sweet liquid sauce, letting it roll in my mouth
before swallowing. Simply scrumptious.
"The dessert is simple to make", says Chef shyly, but
that was what he said about all the other dishes that we devoured
tonight. I guess, that for a person like him, who started his cooking
career when he was 16, everything is simple. I ask him what other
dishes he would recommend and he replies with a smile that he prefers
to ask his customers first what they prefer to eat, whether it be
fish or meat before recommending anything. A wise answer indeed.
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