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By Benjamin Malcolm
I had long savoured the opportunity to dine at Le Coq d'Or - the
chance to taste some of the finest French cuisine in the city, the
chance to relax with my fianc? in the upper-class cosy confines
of an English country house and the chance for a ride in the restaurant's
black London taxi cab.
Well, my missions were almost accomplished. The cab ride never
materialized, as the vehicle was feeling its age and was undergoing
repair.
This is not to say I wasn't satisfied with my experience at Le
Coq d'Or. Indeed, my lunch at the restaurant satisfied both my desire
for the taste of delicious French cuisine and for the right atmosphere
to enjoy it in and frankly, the ride in the restaurant's van was
comfortable and efficient enough.
The restaurant has been among Chiang Mai's finest dining options
for over 30 years and has settled comfortably for the last 12 years
in its "new" location, the old British consulate building,
just across the Ping River near the Westin Hotel. The restaurant's
estate area, used often for weddings, spreads across seven acres
to the river, a white-walled yet wide-open patch of greenery.
My fianc? and I were whisked by van to Le Coq d'Or for a special
lunch one Sunday, the guests of Manager Kitti Changpeam. We spent
some time discussing the history of the restaurant and the most
recent change of ownership. Former long-time owner Alan Telfer,
a car-collector and businessman, passed away only last April, to
be replaced by a Thai partnership. The London taxi cab, used by
the restaurant for its entire history, was part of Telfer's collection.
We began by choosing the room, no small feat when considering the
array of options available. The restaurant can seat a total of 85
in any style of room, from the intimate confines of the six-person
"Busabong Room" to the spacious area of the "New
Glass Room," which seats a total of 55. Other options include
the cold-season favourite "Fireplace room" and the brick-walled
"Brasserie." As it was a sunny day, a bit overcast, we
decided on the New Glass room, which could afford us a chance to
look upon the beauty of the restaurant's lawn and garden as well
as our dining area.
The select menu included several of the house specialties, accompanied
by a bottle of house red, a Chilean Mont Gras.
Our first course, the appetizer, consisted of pan fried Foie Gras,
grilled tiger prawn salad and a bowl of truffle soup. The Foie Gras
was served with a bouquet of salad, lightly topped with Balsamic
dressing. On hand was a healthy portion of French bread, the standard
beginning to any French repast. The Foie Gras, lightly fried to
bring out the full range of taste, with a dash of pepper from one
of the waiters, was exquisite, suffusing my taste buds with the
sweetness of duck. The truffle soup, laced with duck liver as well,
was a pleasing accompaniment, tangy and thick.
My fianc? noted the professionalism of the staff and they did seem
to be faultless in their presentation, moving unobtrusively among
the diners, switching plates for courses, pouring water and taking
away unneeded items. This attention to service, with the white linen
tablecloth and Chinaware fosters a 5-star atmosphere to the dining
experience at Le Coq d'Or. According to Changpeam, most of the staff
are long-time residents and all are housed on the estate, in back
of the restaurant. This attention to the comforts of the staff has
obviously paid dividends in the dining area.
The second course, or main course, was the preserved duck leg with
garlette potatoes and duck gravy sauce. Duck is one of my favourite
meals and I was lucky enough to have this full range of the bird,
in both the appetizer and the main course. The duck leg was wonderfully
flaky, coming easily off the bone at the touch of my fork. The skin
was crisped again perfectly, with a light braise of breadcrumbs.
The duck is marinated seven days before being cooked in red wine.
The duck is of course one of the favourites of the restaurant's
clientele. Others include the French-style bouillabaisse, the steamed
or grilled Phuket lobster and an excellent selection of beef dishes,
including Chateaubriand B?arnaise, served with tarragon butter sauce
and topped with Foie Gras, served with truffle sauce.
Le Coq d'Or provided a bit of classical music (on CD) for our listening
enjoyment, but also offers live music on Friday and Saturday nights,
either piano or classical guitar. The restaurant specializes in
hosting meetings for area businesses and also thrives on local high-end
hotel groups, which are brought in for special meals. Only about
20 percent of Le Coq d'Or's clientele are walk-ins. With its reputation
for excellent food and service, the restaurant has managed to build
a steady business from local diners and passers-through.
Our final dessert course was a combination of several delicious
treats, the sweet tastes of the Grand Marnier souffl? and the encore
special of Crepe Suzette, with our choice of a hot cup of Boncafe
coffee. The waiter deftly flipped the pancake amid the simmering
waters of triple sec, Grand Marnier, lemon and orange juice and
served it to us straight from the pan. The Crepe Suzette is one
of the specialty items that is prepared at your table. Others include
the dessert flamb?, the cherry jubilee and the Caesar salad.
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With our meal finished, I had time to walk around the various rooms,
enjoying in particular the cosy English hunting-lodge atmosphere
of the fireplace room. With its paintings of fox-chasing by Edward
Benjamin Herberte and its collection of wooden antique roosters
on the mantel, it presents a more intimate option than the dining
area we occupied for our meal. I look forward to another visit to
Le Coq d'Or, before crackling flames, in the more intimate atmosphere
of this room.
Perhaps by then, the London taxi will be back in form, adding the
extra touch of class to this already classy Chiang Mai restaurant.
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