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There is no better place in the world to eat Thai food than in
Bangkok.
Unfortunately many visitors only sample the countrys cuisine
at hotel restaurants. Although many hotels have excellent Thai restaurants,
the food is too often designed primarily for foreigners and lacks
the spark and excitement found in some of the citys independent
restaurants that are frequented primarily by Thais.
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Many would argue - and the writer is among them - that the restaurant
operated by Khun Khanitha Akaranitkul just off Ploenchit Road on
Soi Ruamrudee is one of Bangkoks
finest independent Thai dining spots. Tastefully decorated with
significant quantities of wood, plants and pieces of art, it was
at one time the Egyptian Embassy. There is a small inner courtyard
where there are a few seats for those who want to eat outside. Upstairs
there is an art gallery with objects for sale and an attractive
room for private parties. There is a private parking lot and for
those using public transportation, the restaurant is an easy walk
from the Ploenchit Skytrain station. The restaurant is extremely
popular with people from nearby embassies and is a great spot for
those seeking a memorable lunch.
The restaurant is stamped with Khun Khanithas personality
and reflects her love of the good life. The food is exquisitely
presented and whilst being authentically Thai, it also has a unique
flair. Grapes, for example, make their way into several dishes and
add a sweet and cooling contrast to traditional Thai spices.
When enjoyed with an imaginative cocktail or a glass of wine from
the extensive wine list, the appetizers provide an excellent beginning
to dining. Especially notable is the deep-fried chicken wrapped
in pandanus leaf. The krathong thong, little bean curd cups filled
with minced pork and shrimp, are also a wonderful way to get warmed-up
for more extensive eating.
There are a variety of excellent salads on the menu, but many people
seem to prefer the Yam Som-o, a pomelo salad served with shrimp
and bits of chicken. It provides a wonderful combination of sour,
sweet and spicy flavours. Others prefer the beef salad: a mixture
of sliced warm beef, chili, lime, and fish sauce that is topped
with sliced grapes.
Seafood plays a significant role at the restaurant and several
of the dishes feature soft shelled crabs, a delicacy mushrooming
in popularity in Bangkok. If you have never tried soft-shelled crab,
try one of Baan Khanithas versions. The writer is especially
partial to it when the crabs are stir-fried until crisp and served
with deep fried basil leaves. Tastes just dont get much better
than this.
For fish lovers, the Seabass Steamed with Limes is
piquant and easy to eat, especially for foreigners used to fish
spiced with lemon. One of the restaurants most popular dishes
is Stir-fried Seabass with Chili, Hot Basil Leaves and Eggplants.
Known as Pla Krapong Phad Khee Mao in Thai, the fish
in this popular dish is usually served in a single piece. In the
Baan Khanitha version, it is cut into cubes, making it easy to eat
and easy to mix with the other ingredients.
The curries are all excellent, but we are especially fond of the
roasted duck with grapes. Duck is always an excellent in Thailand
and the Baan Khanitha creates great tastes with it. If you are interested
in a more traditional curry, try either the red curry with beef
or the green curry with chicken. Both are redolent with Thais spices
and filled with a richness by the addition of coconut milk.
The service at the restaurant is attentive and genuinely friendly.
The staff is obviously proud of their restaurant and will explain
the nature of different dishes and make sensible recommendations
to diners unfamiliar with Thai food.
Baan Khanitha has a reasonably extensive wine list. It also serves
a full range of cocktails. There are some excellent infusions made
with local herbs and spices on the menu. A glass of lemongrass tea,
for example, is an excellent drink to sip while perusing the extensive
menu.
There is another branch of the restaurant on Sukhumvit Soi 23 (0-2258-4181).
It has the same menu and the quality of the food is the same as
at the Ruamrudee branch, but is a little more casual. It is located
in a restored villa and is also tastefully decorated and filled
with plants and objects of art. Both restaurants are open for lunch
from 11:00-14:00 and for dinner from 18:00-23:00. Reservations are
a must at both restaurants, particularly in the evening.
These are two of Bangkoks finest Thai restaurants. If you
want to sample Thai food at its best, you cant go wrong at
either of the Baan Khanitha dining spots.
Baan Khanitha
49 Soi Ruamrudee 2, Ploenchit Road
Tel: 0-2253-4638-9;
Fax 01153-4634
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