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By Kit C. Cauw
The first thing I notice upon checking into my room at Bangkok's
Sofitel Silom is the electric pink and blue flyer on the desktop
that reads, "Hot & Horny V9." Bold, I think. I put
down the bags and go to investigate. Within the field of deep pink,
a close-up of a glass of red wine is positioned behind the audacious
lettering. The restaurant's name and logo, V9, includes the graphic
of a line of lipstick, as though lifted straight from the edge of
a champagne flute. In smaller print, the cover reads, "As you
can see, V9 gets loud and proud. Satisfaction comes easy this season,
as high above the clouds, our 37th floor hideaway gets steamy with
a number of fun-filled events for your pure pleasure."
Clearly V9 is a wine destination. An entire half of a folded-out
page is devoted to their sommelier, Sylvain, who "has worked
in some of London's best restaurants including The Criterion for
Marco Pierre White and Nobu. Having toured vineyards all across
the world from South America to Australia as well as his native
France, Sylvain is eager to impart his vast knowledge and will help
you select the right wine with your order." He is pictured
in a playful pose, sitting amongst crates of wine, dressed in stylish
black, holding a glass of red in his hand and a red tulip in his
mouth. This is no stuffy wine cellar but a venue devoted to the
enjoyment of the senses.
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Above his brief bio, his top five wines are listed along with his
pairings. The prices range from the 770 baht 1999 Grand Marquis
Oak Red Bordeaux AOC to 3,180 baht for the 1990 Saint Estephe Grand
Vin du Chateau Phelan Segur Bordeaux. His top wine is the 2000 Luncato
Italy Tuscany for 1,295 baht. According to the description, "This
enchanting Tuscan wine, a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet
grapes, has been aged 12 months in a barrique giving it a deep purple
colour and layered aromas, reflecting its superb vintage."
Sommelier Sylvain's pairing suggestion reads, "Pan-fried marinated
venison loin with sautéed asparagus, spinach and ratatouille. Served
with a chartreuse jus or pyramid of polenta and mushroom."
Enticing indeed. It is easy to see the appeal of becoming a connoisseur
and V9 is clearly the place in Bangkok to begin one's tutelage.
I am ravenous already, but our date with public relations executive
Mr. Harris Kurthip is not until eight o'clock. The three hours between
now and dinner seem interminable. Venison! I think the last time
I indulged in venison was in Quebec's Eastern Townships, probably
three years ago. I wish that I hadn't set our appointment for so
late, but I was concerned about Bangkok traffic. I thought we could
be stuck for over an hour or so coming from the airport, but the
Sofitel is located quite near to the toll way, so we made much better
time than I expected.
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Finally the hour arrives and we ride the elevator to the 37th floor.
The entrance of V9 is set up like a wine outlet with crates upon
crates of wines, individual vintages on display. The hallway walls
are covered in educational material including a schedule of wine
classes. A twist on the old adage of majoring in "arts and
parties."
We are led from the outlet area to the lounge, where we slide into
plush chairs to await our hostess. The table top is a frosty glass,
lit from within. A single red tulip is displayed in a fine vase.
There is a happy hour feel to the surroundings. Eight o'clock on
a Friday evening and the city's stylish are winding down their work
week with cocktails; hors d'ouvres served on "trees" with
branches for numerous, small, tapas-style dishes and of course,
wine. The bar itself displays its collection of Absolut, Bombay
Sapphire, Tanqueray, and Chivas Regal. The design is sleek, modern,
featuring silver, glass and black. Trendy soft rock is played at
a volume appropriate for pre-party conversation. In the back room,
a band is beginning to set up.
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Mr. Harris arrives and we get down the business of perusing the
menus. Chef Boris comes to visit, recommending the marinated squab
salad, the mushrooms in filo with caviar sauce, the sea bass with
prawn ravioli and the lamb filet with pesto cream sauce and spicy
eggplant. He points out that they offer an entire cheese menu. Never
less than nine varieties are available. Often he has up to thirteen
different kinds from all over the world. "Many people come,
have one or two bottles of wine and a cheese platter and sit here
all night."
Each month, V9 features a food promotion. This month is squabb.
It is the 29th already; I'm pleased that we got here just under
the wire, though the Phuket Lobster and Vegetarian months will surely
be lovely as well.
We thank Chef Marcel for his suggestions, although I've been sold
on the venison since five o'clock. We follow his lead in the appetizers
of squabb salad and the mushrooms in filo. My girlfriend orders
the sea bass.
Mr. Harris, informs us that tonight is the monthly gathering of
the celebrity, or "Hi-So" band. Band members are not professional
musicians; rather they are highly successful professionals and businesspeople
who also happen to have musical talent. This is their outlet for
expression and an excellent occasion for drawing a crowd of Bangkok's
hippest and most famous. Indeed, V9 has played host to a number
of Tony events, including the Cosmopolitan (Thailand) fashion show
and sixth birthday party, wine tasting with the Australian ambassador
and the launch of the Accor Press Club.
It should go without saying that the views from V9, here on the
37th floor of downtown Bangkok, are stunning, but it is worth mentioning
nonetheless. At night, the city sparkles like the diamonds flashing
from V9's "hi-so" clientele.
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As we indulge in our meal, Mr. Harris explains that the whole concept
of V9 is to provide vintages at reasonable prices. In fact, the
pub and restaurant do not mark up the bottles at all. The Wine Connection,
a French-owned company based in Bangkok, supervises the cellar and
sells wine here for the same prices as it does in its retail outlets.
"The whole concept is unique," he says. "Here at
V9, we feel the best way to learn about wine is to taste it, which
is why we came up with the 'flight' concept, where guests are given
small glasses of three different wines, along with a card describing
them. Guests can keep the cards and then order bottles of the vintages
that they enjoy most."
Not surprisingly, Chef Boris's recommendations all hit the mark,
especially the squabb salad, which was exquisite, served with a
sauce of champagne and foie gras. My venison was a treat as well,
like meeting an old friend. As the plates are cleared, the band
starts up and the crowd of happy hour revelers moves the apex of
the party near the stage. The band opens with the Beatles. I have
a twinge of regret that we have another pressing social engagement;
V9 is clearly an all evening event and it seems a shame to have
to push off just as the night is steaming up.
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