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By Benjamin Malcolm
It is common practice for a chef to seek the freshest, most tender
meats and seafood for their creations. At the Kabuki Sushi Bar Chef
a Suwat has gone a little further not only to procurOn the good
side of the Chao Praya River, away from the hustle and bustle of
central Bangkok, the Peninsula hotel rises 37 floors from the North
bank of Bangkok's main waterway. The slim and elegant structure
of the hotel means that each room commands prestigious views of
Thailand's vibrant river life.
Voted as 'Best hotel in Asia' by Travel Leisure magazine, the Peninsula's
hospitality is second to none. To experience it is to know that
you have experienced the best in Thai hospitality.
The Peninsula's Thiptara or 'Heaven on the water' restaurant, sits
on the banks of the Chao Praya and is a luxurious dining experience
that gets you as close as you can to traveling back in time and
experiencing the tastes and ambience of the ultimate dining experience
from Thailand's historical Ayudhya period.
Cleverly secluded in the manicured grounds overlooking the river
as it sits on the quieter North bank of the Chao Praya, one is welcomed
at the flame lit, carved sandstone entrance by hostesses in strikingly
unique costumes, specially designed for the restaurant by Cocoon.
This sets the tone of Thiptara; enhancing traditional elegance with
an exciting contemporary flair.
Guests are seated at tables made form ancient preserved timber
in one of the genuine teak wood pavilions that date back to Thailand's
historical theme period of the restaurant. These Pavilions or 'Sala'
as they are known in Thai, have been brought here from Ayudhya and
reconstructed in their original glory, the centuries old wood gracefully
showing its age.
The open air restaurant makes for a very romantic evening setting
as a cool breeze flows in off the river, making the candle flames
dance in their coloured bowls while delicate oriental melodies float
from a musician playing the 'Khim,' a traditional Thai stringed
instrument producing an Asiatic sound, akin to the western harp.
Wherever you look, there are eye catching reminders of traditional
Thai life like an ancient well set in the floor and the ornate spirit
house draped in garlands nestled in the corner. Pastel coloured
storage jars and traditional wicker work are neatly dotted around.
The view of the river is a constantly changing scenic background
as long tail boats and rice barges float by.
Each restaurant at the Peninsula has its own pre meal snacks that
are thoughtfully placed on the table for guests who left their hunger
waiting a little too long before making their way to the restaurant;
Thiptara's nibbles are honey coated cashew nuts. Don't eat too many
of this endless supply though, they fill you up pretty quickly.
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The drinks menu is extensive, offering a selection of excellent
wines by the glass or bottle and juices reflecting the abundance
of Thailand's fruit varieties. In keeping with the traditional theme
of Thiptara, the drinks menu also lists a number of specially made
Thai herbal drinks with exquisite names that sound fit for only
royalty. If you are new to these healthy drinks and have trouble
deciding which one to try, the restaurant staff are very knowledgeable
on what is good depending on your mood. Some are intended to have
a cooling effect while others offer a refreshing pizzazz. Chrysanthemum
drink (Gek-Huay) for example, quashes internal heat. Drink it before
or after a heavy meal or for refreshing relief from the humidity.
'Ga-jiep' is another native flower traditionally used to make a
drink that soothes the throat and refreshes the palate. Whichever
you choose, the bright colours and decorative presentation of these
specialty refreshments are a refreshing, non-alcoholic accompaniment
to the meal.
A number of condiments are necessary for Thai dishes; most commonly,
ground chili, fish sauce, sugar and sweet pickle vinegar. Innovation
and creativity has drawn on Thai heritage to transform containers
traditionally used for storing beetle nut concoctions as the condiment
bowls.
'Som Tam' or papaya salad is a dish traditionally made in the rural
Northeast of Thailand but enjoyed by all Thais. From rice farmers
to nobles it is the dish that is most often a part of a mealtime
spread and can be prepared in a variety of ways. There are a few
essential ingredients to som tam but no hard and fast rules about
exactly how it should taste and look, as long as it's colourful.
The Som tam at Thiptara is a tribute to culinary freedom of expression;
this version of Thai salad is most definitely colourful as shreds
of papaya in the orange, yellows and greens at different stages
of ripeness sit neatly in a red cabbage leaf cup, adorned with a
selection of crispy vegetables.
In a rural setting, papaya salad would usually be accompanied by
sticky rice 'Kao neow'. Here though, the rice has been given top
class treatment by preparing it with coconut milk and saffron, creating
'Kao mun'. The results are pleasantly surprising; a slight sweetness
that does not obscure the subtle blend of savoury ingredients also
traditionally present in som tam. This must be the most exquisite
way to enjoy Thailand's most well known dish.
Coconut milk is often used in Thai soups and curries. As traditional
Thai is the theme here, a number of main course dishes like 'Tom
Yam' or 'Tom Kaa Gai' use coconut milk recipes. These traditional
dishes also contain a number of herbs like lemon grass and ginger
which not only add a multitude of explosive flavours to the dish
but are known to be beneficial to the immune system.
Morning glory and king prawns or 'Pak boong' is a great appetizer;
cooked in soy sauce and oyster sauce, it is a common Thai dish that
has been given a new twist by Thiptara's head chef, Sumalee Boon-Ek.
Here the vegetable is lightly fried, leaves and all, preserving
its crispiness and lush colour with a light coating of batter.
Thai meals are traditionally eaten as a group with dishes placed
in the centre and everybody helping them selves to a little from
each dish at a time. The wide range of dishes on the menu at Thiptara
all have their roots in traditional Thai cuisine and are served
as such. Prepared with finesse, expertise and an interesting twist
of heightened elegance, this gastronomic alchemy of the traditional
and the innovative will leave you satiated but not overly full with
enough energy to enjoy the rest of the night that will probably
still be young; the perfect way to leave the table.
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