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By Dr. Iain
When a restaurant has won the New York Wine Spectator Magazine's
Award of Excellence, it may seem superfluous to further assess the
quality of the venue. However, in the name of truly investigative
journalism, my partner and I made the trip to Pattaya, just over
90 minutes from Bangkok via the tollway, to the Royal Cliff Beach
Resort to sample their Grill Room and Wine Cellar.
The Royal Cliff Beach Resort boasts 10 restaurants, but it was
the one having achieved the Award of Excellence we had come to appraise.
Ranjith Chandrasiri, Deputy General Manager of the Royal Cliff Grand
and president of the Royal Cliff Wine Club, together with his charming
wife Chitra, were our hosts. They suggested we meet in the Piano
Bar in the main building, situated above the Grill Room and Wine
Cellar.
We were greeted by impeccable service staff that ushered us to
generous sofas whilst pouring our welcoming drinks; a palate pleasing
sparkler from the Royal Cliff's own label. Immediately the comfortable
ambience consumed us. There was no flashy, glitzy, up-market hype.
This was a venue that was at ease with itself.
Having enjoyed our convivial welcome, we descended to the restaurant,
passing the wine cellar on the way. There are some 20,000 bottles
on display, under constant temperature and humidity control, chosen
from the impressive inventory of 36,000 bottles spanning 800 labels.
I was assured that this is one of the most extensive cellar lists
in SE Asia. Prices range from their own label wines at 800 baht,
through to vintages such as a 1959 Petrus (200,000 baht) or a 1990
Romanee Conti at 260,000 baht.
We emerged from the wine cellar to be met by three service personnel
who greeted us as if we were the most important people in the world,
taking us to our dining alcove and silently ushering us into supremely
comfortable chairs, lighting candles and ensuring we were thoroughly
relaxed.
The restaurant employs the use of natural wood on the walls and
ceiling, complimenting and overlooking a grassy garden area beyond.
It has a hushed, unhurried air to it, heightened by the utterly
professional, friendly and competent service staff.
The menu has some 50 selections beginning with Cold Appetizers
that offer items from poached tiger prawn, Alaskan crab, Norwegian
salmon and Tasmanian oysters through to Szechuan duck. It is under
the direction of Executive Chef, Walter Thenisch and reflects the
'internationality' of this professional. There is no secret to good
food - you just use the best ingredients, whether that is Australian
lamb or US Angus beef or pan-fried Maine scallops.
The wine list is under Ranjith's command and encompasses 19 pages.
However, if this seems a trifle too daunting, the waiters are trained
sommeliers and are only too happy to recommend a bottle to complement
your culinary selections.
Our choices were noted and repeated faultlessly. We began with
a complimentary 'amuse bouche' to revive possibly jaded palates.
From there it was an Alaskan crab meat salad with grain mustard
cream dressing on a cucumber mirror for my partner, while being
ever one for 'theatre' with my food, I had plumped for the cream
of tomato soup with bacon, mushrooms and onions flamb?ed with gin
at the table.
For my main dish I had chosen the grilled US Angus prime rib-eye
which the Maitre d'Hotel brought to the table on a butcher's platter,
complete with scales. You are encouraged to choose your preferred
size of steak, which then is cut in front of you from the whole
rib-eye. It returned, cooked to perfection and I can also heartily
recommend the horseradish cream that goes with it.
The evening was totally memorable. The food was superb and the
service likewise. The ambience is probably without peer in Thailand
and, on reflection later, I believe that this stems in no small
part from the fact that everyone dines in 'private' alcoves. You
may be in a restaurant, but you are dining only with those at your
table, not with other customers in a large 'eating hall'. You cannot
avoid but be delighted with this restaurant. The Wine Spectator
judges were certainly impressed enough to present it with their
Award of Excellence! I give it my award of excellence too.
Was it worth the trip top Pattaya? It certainly was. You will not
be disappointed either.
The Grill Room and Wine Cellar, Royal Cliff Beach Resort, 353 Phra
Tamnuk Road, Pattaya, telephone 038 250 421. Closed on Tuesdays.
For those readers who like to savour their wines, the following
came from Ranjith Chandrasiri's wine notes. (Ranjith, by the way,
is one of the accredited top wine judges in Thailand.)
"Reception sparkling at the Piano bar - Royal Cliff cellar
selection Australian sparkling wine NV (Royal Cliff's own label).
Medium straw, with a glint of bronze, hints of sweet, tropical fruit
come through on the bouquet, the smooth, well balanced palate offers
particularly attractive fruit for it's very attractive price of
800 baht ++ per bottle.
"Long Paddock Chardonnay 2001, Redbank, Victoria, Australia,
1400 baht ++. Light to medium green yellow, clean fruit driven bouquet
ranges through nectarine, melon and citrus, the same intense varietal
fruit driving the long and perfectly balanced palate.
"Villa Maria "Private bin" cabernet/merlot 2001,
Auckland, New Zealand, 1600 baht ++. Medium red-purple, moderately
intense, clean, red berry fruit and celery pencilly oak in the background
of the bouquet leads in to a palate with attractive blackcurrant
and dark chocolate, with the oak better integrated and balanced
"Tyrell's Old Winery Pinot Noir 2002, Australia, 1700 baht
++. Medium red-purple, concentrated, ripe and lusciously sweet plum
fruit on the bouquet is precisely matched by the palate, with all
concentration and richness of the bouquet, adding some savory characters
to the dark plum fruit. Very well balanced wine."
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