|
By Benjamin Malcolm
One can readily understand the implications of the name "Thara
Thong." In Thai, it means literally the "The Golden River,"
but in real form, it exists as one of the signature restaurants
at the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers Bangkok.
At first glance, this name would seem to signify an appellative
nod of appreciation toward the city's and the hotel's benefactor,
the Chao Phraya River, which flows just outside the windows and
balcony of this dining area. But in a more metaphorical sense, it
also denotes the bounty of choice at the eater's fingertips, the
luxury of the menu of Royal Thai cuisine.
I had the pleasure of partaking of the prominent dishes of Thara
Thong one April evening during Songkran. All of the Sheraton's restaurants
have a place on the river and this in turn reflects the focus of
this hotel. The river, the heart of the city, provides a perfect
backdrop for dining, especially at dusk, when it becomes a virtual
Loy Krathong candle festival of festival-lighted dinner ships and
other traffic.
Thara Thong, one of four restaurants (not including lounges and
bars), distinguishes itself with its menu and with its interior,
a glorious Thai teak pavilion that beckons diners with its plushly-pillowed,
comfortable floor seating at low tables. Guests can either choose
to sit outside on the terrace or find a comfortable nook in the
main dining area and thus avail themselves to the soothing aural
strains of Thai classical music.
The latter, which was my predilection, is the seemingly appropriate
choice for those who would wish to steep themselves in the aura
of Thai Royal cuisine and imagine if just for a minute what it would
feel like to dine like nobility. The teakwood interior helps with
this daydreaming of course, as well as the place settings, with
its mix of celadon china and bronze cutlery.
Royal Thai cuisine was once reserved for the "inner court"
of aristocracy, but has since made its appearance in fine dining
areas about the city. Besides its careful selection and preparation
of the freshest ingredients, Royal Thai cuisine focuses on artistic
presentation; vegetables and fruits are skilfully carved and then
arrayed, set on the fringes of main dishes like ornate frames upon
a painting.
My meal began with a serving of Wi Hok Norn Rung, golden fried
shrimp filled with crispy vegetables. This featured a small dab
of potato on top, a miniature smiling face that reminded me of a
whip cream topping. I took several minutes to appreciate the creativity
of this before digging in with gusto.
The shrimp is a great choice for an appetizer, but only one of
10 possibilities on the menu. Chef Charoensri Wattanayuthara has
provided a sumptuous selection and during every month, a special
dish. At the front desk, I read about the special dish of April,
Khao Chae, a set course of salty and sweet dishes, eaten with jasmine
rice soaked in ice-cold jasmine water.
The restaurant's menu suggests that diners select at least three
dishes to align themselves with the perfect harmony of taste and
aroma. As there is no particular sequence of eating, each dish can
be tasted at will according to the diner's desires. I respected
my hostesses and the restaurant's recommendations and chose a trio
of dishes to follow my shrimp. The menu listed a variety of herbed
and spiced salads, curries, fish and seafood, soups, chilli dips,
sizzling hot plates, stir-fried dishes and a full two sections devoted
to "healthy" and vegetarian dishes.
True to form, all three of my dishes arrived at the same time and
I sampled selectively, appreciating each one. I still find it difficult
to adapt to the deliberate style of Thai dining, but have come to
understand the advantages of eating slowly and savouring the parameters
of taste. Restaurants like Thara Thong make that philosophy a must.
My three dishes reflected a rainbow of tastes. From the sour set
came the Yum Som-O, the spicy pomelo salad with shrimp and coconut
flakes. Spicy was represented by the Tom Yam Gung Yai, the ever-popular
spicy and sour prawns soup and all tastes were captured with the
final dish, pla salmon ta krai, or deep-fried marinated salmon with
lemon grass and fresh herbs.
After much prompting from my hostess, I acquiesced for a bit of
dessert, the appropriate summer sweetness of kao niew ma muang,
or fresh mango with fragrant sticky rice, the perfect cap to a perfect
meal. We conversed as we enjoyed our dessert, stalling over our
comfortable environs for another half hour before calling for the
check.
As I left Thara Thong, I came to understand the full meaning of
that name. I stepped out toward the river for a post-dinner walk,
catching the last strains of Thai classical music from the doorway.
I saw the soft pillows I had left behind, longed for them for but
a minute and then decided for the equally soft embrace of the evening
air, savouring the sublime taste of the meal that still lingered
upon my tongue.
|
