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By Benjamin Malcolm
My girlfriend and I first wandered upon the Wanaburee in our scouting
expedition to Khao Lak, Phang Nga Province’s resort town that
has sprung to life where the national park plummets into the sea.
We were hunting the perfect retreat for my parents’ upcoming
trip-something luxurious, yet unpretentious; comfortable, yet with
a feel of the jungle wilds-the ideal setting in which to spend a
night before heading out to the nearby Similan Islands.
Less than an hour by taxi from Phuket International Airport, resorts
and guest houses abound in this booming tourist centre, which actually
spreads out over a span of seven beaches, but because of the topography,
the steep mountain slopes and the locals’ intentions to avoid
some of Phuket’s shortcomings, most places are small, built
along the beaches and into the jungled mountainside.
On the way down the mountain, we soaked up the view of ocean, trees
and endless beach. At first glance, I was reminded of Phuket’s
famous viewpoint of the Kata and Karon beaches, but here was a different
kind of beauty, the sand more bronze, almost copper-toned, than
white, with a virtual forest of casuarinas lining the shore.
For the remainder of the morning, we cruised the roads and drives
leading to and along the beaches, in search of Mini-Xanadu. We turned
up a number of gems, but none were quite right, none satisfied the
feeling of just what I was looking for. Finally, after about the
fourteenth resort, my girlfriend put on a commanding face and insisted,
“I’m not going any further until we get some food!”
Despite my indecisiveness, I was finding that I rather liked the
feel of Khao Lak, the feel of being back in a more “real”
Thailand and our lunch of fresh seafood prepared with local recipes
really hit the spot. We finished eating, feeling both invigorated
from the food and reluctant to spend any more time asking to be
shown rooms that we couldn’t afford ourselves, which, ultimately,
would not meet the criteria I’d set for my parents. But then,
as we drove above Khao Lak Beach, my eye caught, hidden behind a
construction zone, an elegant contemporary Thai sala, a stylish
grey-tiled roof sheltering an open-aired reception pavilion. A sign
in the dirt drive read, “Wanaburee Resort. Welcome During Our
Soft Opening.”
I said, “But wait, just this last one.” Not waiting for
my girlfriend’s response, I turned in. I could sense from her
silence and utter lack of enthusiasm that this darn well better
be the last resort of the day!
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As we climbed down into the finished portion of the Wanaburee,
her tone changed, her eyes brightening at the neat landscaping,
the quaint lagoon, the fossil-print impressions of giant leaves
in the concrete walk. She squeezed my hand tight and gave a knowing
smile, for it was clear that we’d accomplished our mission.
A friendly staff member approached us and graciously showed us one
of the manor bungalows, set in the garden area. These were large
units that could be sold either as a suite or as two individual
rooms. On the ample porch hung a bamboo hammock-swing and the natural
wood frames of the glass doors nicely complimented the cream-coloured
walls. The interior smelled pleasantly of wood, and the tiles were
cool underfoot. With a contemporary Thai minimalism, the room was
furnished and decorated simply, ergonomically. The paintings adorning
the walls, we were told, depicted various elements of Southern Thai
life. Net fishing by sunset, setting off in a long-tailed boat against
the majesty of Phang Nga Bay. They were unique, with different scenes
in each of the rooms.
When my parents and I arrived, three weeks later, my mother gave
one of her “Oh-ho-ho” chuckles of appreciation, saying,
“You’ve done it again.”
My father, added, with his luminous smile, “This is really
NEAT!”
We were following our host to a rendezvous bungalow, along a path
that led past the lagoon, the manors and the open-air restaurant,
which featured a welded metal sculpture portraying a vibrant coral
reef, replete with various tropical fish. Wanaburee, as I later
learned from general manager, Janthwan Tanthien, was so named in
memoriam of her late brother and the word also means “forest
city.” Currently there are thirty-one rooms available, all
in bungalows and villas of a contemporary tropical Thai architectural
concept. Future plans include the addition of a full service spa
and possibly the construction of another building, farther up in
the forest, which would accommodate up to fifty more guests. I could
easily imagine the spa being a hit here, in these tranquil environs.
The air smelled of the sea and the lagoon, fresh earth and the fecund
jungle, but the best was yet to come.
Between the path and the beach, the black infinite-edged pool gazed
out over the sea, towards the horizon and the Similans beyond. A
wooden bridge led us across the lagoon’s inlet to our bungalow,
just metres from the beach and the pool. If the manor room was inviting,
stylish, and cozy, the rendezvous was pure romance; a king-sized
mattress resting atop a beautiful hard-wood platform bed, centred
in the cylindrical room; a spacious bathroom with separate shower
and tub, as well as a large skylight which invited soft sunbeams.
Despite the contemporary Thai design, I was reminded, in the yellow
bathroom, of Santa Fe adobe. Outside, a heavy porch swing hung on
cast-iron suspenders and the villa’s privacy and charm seemed
the perfect honeymoon getaway, except that the couple in question,
my parents, had their thirty-two year old son in tow!
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Nevertheless, as we stood on the porch, looking out at the afternoon
sunlight glinting on the deep blue Andaman, my mother exclaimed,
“This is just perfect!”
It was pretty close, that’s for sure and it seemed that the
few deficiencies that did arise-difficulty with hot water pressure;
the fact that the lovely beachside restaurant, where we enjoyed
grilled fish steaks to the sounds of the waves, was completely empty,
were more do to the fact that the resort is yet incomplete. Construction
continued apace, though we hardly noticed the noise and the larger
estate villas were not quite finished. Work was due for completion
at the end of April and the grand opening is slated for October
2003. In the meantime, accommodation here is a super bargain, with
all room rates reduced fifty percent through to the end of the soft
opening period. However, for those looking to get away from thumping
disco beats and throngs of tourists, for those who enjoy romantic
getaways, the Wanaburee will always be an excellent value, a delightful
escape into the wonders of Khao Lak.
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