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By Benjamin Malcolm
The strongest attraction to Khao Mai Lanna Resort, apart from the
romantic country atmosphere, is the chance to capture a sense of
Northern Thai history. In fact, a Khao Mai Lanna Resort experience
is literally to live surrounded by the history of this northern
region.
Many years ago, the countryside of Chiang
Mai was filled with tobacco farms and the pungent odor of tobacco
kilns was as much a part of the province’s character as the
waters of the Ping River and the holy spires of Doi Suthep. Now
that side of Chiang Mai is all but gone; another victim of the whimsical
fortunes of economics. This is now the niche of Khao Mai Lanna Resort.
For here, 29 kilometres southwest of Chiang Mai, a former tobacco
farm has been transformed into a sanctuary for travellers and a
semblance of that bygone history has been maintained. The majority
of the luxurious sleeping quarters are former tobacco curing barns,
neatly altered into two-story villas, the top floors of which are
all connected by platforms of wood and leafy, knotted vines.
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This is all purely intentional. Owner Thawat Cherdsthirakul could
have saved money by tearing down the buildings eight years ago and
re-modelling with a more modern face, but that was never part of
his concept rather, what he envisioned was a restoration project
with a lingering element of the past. Thus grew the special allure
of Khao Mai Lanna Resort.
I visited Khao Mai Lanna Resort one sunny afternoon and was treated
to a special tour by Manager Sutee Soparin. The entrance to the
resort is a woodsy glade and one feels immediately at home in the
peace and quiet.
Not all of the curing barns have been converted. Situated on the
far side of an expensive outdoor swimming pool, some ivy-covered
buildings double as rest areas for workers and storage units. These
buildings are left open for guests to walk through and soak up a
sense of how the old tobacco farmers worked. There is no lingering
odour of tobacco, but closing one’s eyes and breathing in the
mustiness of these old buildings fosters a strong sense of memory.
I could see the sunlight dappled about the upper lofts and yet these
old brick and white-walled barns remain unusually cool, the perfect
sanctuary from the heat of the day.
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Herbs and vegetables are the mainstays of the resort’s agricultural
output and in between these old buildings are gardens of chilies,
sweet basil and countless other herbs capable of adding that famous
bite to the sumptuous Thai food served from the kitchen. Located
in one of the old kilns is the resort’s laundry service and
as we approached we found a small crowd gathered, enjoying an afternoon
snack amid the churning washers. Khun Soparin had no objections
to their breaking and I sensed a positive feeling of mutual respect
between manager and workers which added to the relaxation and peace
that I was feeling, being in this place.
In all there are 43-rai of land at the resort and bicycles are
available for those who are interested in a tour into the surrounding
countryside. Numerous trails lead off into the woods, inviting patrons
for a bicycle ride or a joyful frolick in the coutryside.
The rooms are cozy and well-furnished with modern amenities. Antique
Thai-style dressing tables and rare teak furniture enrich the romantic
ambience. Each room is different, due to the original designs of
the curing barns and this character is transferred into the modern
interior design. The beautiful colour of red brick is omnipresent
and this blends with wood and vine to create a truly natural, comfortable
setting. There is a private bridge or walkway secretly leading guests
into each chamber and on each yellow wooden front door are a set
of antique Burmese elephant-faced handles awaiting your arrival,
greeting you to your home away from home.
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There’s plenty to explore in the local area and all the potential
day trips may preclude a return to Chiang Mai. The resort is on
the same highway that leads to Doi Inthanon, the highest mountain
in Thailand.
Also in the surrounding area are the 800-year-old ruins of Viang
Tha Kam, the ceramic village of Muang Kung and at kilometre 69,
the cotton-weaving village of Ban Rai Phai Ngam provides an engaging
afternoon activity.
Heading back to the reception we passed an 80-seat meeting room
and gift shop, which boasts a large collection of locally-made cotton
clothes. Strolling back though the resort, my gaze fell upon a number
of relaxed couples, wrapped-up in each others's presence and the
strength of the reosrt's romantic atmosphere hit me. I wished I
had brought my partner to experience the peaceful vibe I was sensing
and the love I was feeling for her. We arrived back at the glade
of the entrance and my waiting motorcycle. The restaurant is also
in the entrance area, enticing passers-by and guests alike with
its forest-cooled open-air atmosphere. Seeing that and remembering
my tour, I dallied awhile, knowing I could spend a pleasant afternoon
walking about the barns, fields and forests of this precious, preserved
piece of Chiang Mai culture.
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