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By Benjamin Malcolm
This is not the long stable line that exists, for
example, between the United Sates and Canada. It is Myanmar and
Thailand, two countries that have long tried to find economic cooperation
amid the smoldering ashes of historical conflict. As recently as
2001, the border was abruptly closed, as fighting between Myanmar
and a rebel force spilled into Thailand. Several people were killed
by indiscriminate shelling; residents were evacuated, and the military
of both sides roared into the towns to stare each other down until
relations were eased and trading began anew. There is no indication
that this is about to happen again, with the brisk movement of people,
materials and money, but the possibility does exist.
Mae Sai appeals to those seeking something rather different from
the norm. The rugged beauty of the countryside registers its own
keening voice above the din of the market-driven atmosphere of both
towns and the slow outward creep of grubby buildings on both sides.
The forested mountains in Mae Sai and its sister city, Tachileik,
are strewn here and there, seemingly vying for the perfect position
to overtake one another. Also sprinkled about, like chessmen, are
statues of warriors and kings, glaring at the other side with murderous
intent.
The main artery between the two towns is the bridge spanning the
Sai River, where 3,000 to 4,000 people cross daily. The bridge opens
early in the morning and closes when the sun goes down. Most people
opt for a one-day visit into the town of Tachileik, but the opportunity
exists to take a two week break and to travel into the interior
to Kengtung in Shan State.
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In some ways, despite the border atmosphere, it
is a sleepy little village; Mae Sai wakes up in mid-morning, as
workers flow across the bridge from Myanmar. It goes to sleep just
after sundown, as everyone returns to their homes and the Burmese
workers hurry back over the bridge. Markets in town are filled with
workers wearing "tanaka," the skin-conditioning lotion
from the bark of trees favoured by Burmese women. As a border town
to one of the poorest countries in Asia, there is also a fair share
of beggars, even monks, asking for tourist's money.
Shopping really is the focus here, for both Thais and foreigners.
Whether one wanders about Mae Sai or heads over the bridge to Tachileik
and every product from China, Thailand, and Myanmar are on display
on market stalls and in the higher end stores on both sides.
Mae Sai and Tachileik are really giant warehouses for the amount
of material displayed and sold here. In one day, a visitor can buy
a new backpack, a camera, a handful of CD's and DVD's and a French
coffee press; although the quality of any of these begs the warning
"buyer beware." Food comes in huge sacks, dried mushrooms,
nuts and all variety of dried fruit. Of more exclusive interest
is the high-end market, which contains precious stones, silver and
gold jewelry, and antiques. Much of what Myanmar has to offer is
for sale on the streets here, and it is readily apparent that there
is a wealth of mineral and historical produce flowing from that
country.
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People who opt for the one-day trip into Tachileik
will find tuk-tuk and samlor drivers ready to provide transport
to the few places of interest. In town, this includes a replica
of the Shwedagone Pagoda, several other temples and a giant statue
of King Bayint Naung (who glares arms crossed at Thailand). The
highest-end option in town is the Regina Entertainment Hotel, which
includes an 18-hole golf course. Myanmar encourages visitors to
spend their money and those who come must weigh the pros and cons
of this. Many publications suggest spending at small stores with
the local people rather than in the larger government-owned facilities.
One can get easily tired by shopping and that's where the second
most popular activity comes into play - sightseeing, specifically
up and down the great variety of overlooks that allow visitors to
gaze over a wide swath of territory on both sides.
The most popular view point is "Scorpion Viewing Point."
The giant viewing platform that is part of Wat Phra That Doi Wao,
a sprawling complex on the top of the peak of Wao Mountain in the
middle of Mae Sai. There is a staircase that leads up here, just
past the main market area, or one could choose a 20-Baht motorcycle
ride and be whisked to the top and back down. While the holiest
part of the temple is at the peak, most people head to the overlook.
The attractions there include a double-tiered platform (with three
gold warrior statues glaring across the border), a giant plaster
scorpion (glaring with claws outstretched toward Myanmar) and climbable
bell tower. All are accessible and afford marvelous expansive views
of the countryside surrounding the mountain in Mae Sai and into
Myanmar.
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More adventure awaits on the road that runs along
the Mae Sai River, and a stroll along this takes you into lesser-travelled
areas of town, away from the shopping stalls and bridge traffic.
One of the more fascinating guest houses (mainly for backpackers
seeking cheaper accommodation) is the Mae Sai Plaza Guest House;
a rambling series of dark brown cottages on the slopes of Wao Mountain.
The most interesting part of this complex is the M.C. Escher-like
staircases and cement walkways that weave their way up and down
between cottages through open-air sitting areas and guest house
buildings.
A more secluded viewing option, apart from Scorpion Viewing Point,
is at the peak of Wat Tam Phaa Jom, a thumb-like tree-covered mountain
that contains a huge temple complex, a set of interesting Buddhist
statues (of elephants, a cobra and other fauna surrounding a giant
seated Buddha), and a winding staircase, covered by forest, that
leads up to a secluded viewing area. Rumors have it that a cave
entrance in this temple complex leads under the river and over to
the Myanmar side.
At the top of this, inevitably, is another statue - this time a
four-armed deity, who pulls back an arrow in his bow, aiming toward
Myanmar from the seclusion of the mountain peak. Around him are
forest and the sounds of birdsong and a wide-open view of both Mae
Sai and Tachileik, an intriguing sight and yet another reminder
for travellers of the mixture of history and beauty in this northernmost
Thai border town.
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