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By Michael Moore
The Royal Barges are one of Bangkok's most fascinating sights.
Housed in sheds in The Royal Barge National Museum on Bangkok Noi
Canal on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, they provide
a fascinating insight into Thai history and culture. These are not
barges in the sense of vessels employed to carry cargo up and down
the river. Rather, they are ornately decorated boats with magnificently
carved prows that at one time served a military function, but today
are limited to use in State ceremonies and celebrations.
The most impressive and important of the boats is Suphanahong,
the King's personal barge. Built in 1911 to resemble a mythical
swan, the 46 metre craft was hewn from a single tree and is covered
with intricate gilt carvings and colourful pieces of glass, forming
an eye-catching mosaic. There is a golden pavilion on board to house
the King and his Royal family. It is not an easy task to get this
vessel moving; it requires 54 oarsmen, who paddle in time to the
rhythmic beat of a drummer following a melodic chant called a "bot
heh rua.".
In addition to Suphanahong, there are several other barges in the
museum. On their bows sit a variety of figureheads taken from Thai
mythology, Ramakian. One barge features a sacred Garuda; another
Hanuman the monkey and yet another possesses the seven heads of
Naga, the mythical serpent with white fangs that is often portrayed
giving shelter to Buddha. The most recently created barge is the
royal barge Narai Song Suban H.M Rama IX built in honour of the
current King's 50th year on the throne. Its prow has the head of
the Hindu god Narayana mounted on a Garuda. All of these barges
are fascinating to view as they possess a remarkable degree of craftsmanship
and are absolutely unique. Said with more simplicity, there isn't
anything quite like them anywhere else in the world.
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To see the barges gliding through the water is a spectacle but
one must plan well in advance or just be lucky enough to catch them,
for they are only used sparingly. Each year at the full moon marking
songkran the Thai New Year, a grand procession of barges is formed
to transport the King from his palace to the temple of the Emerald
Buddha, for the ceremonial change of Buddha's clothes. The fervently
respected Emerald Buddha has its dress changed by the King three
times a year, signifying the three seasons of Thailand; hot, rainy
and cool.
One of the best times to see the barges is during the royal kathin
ceremony that marks ok phansaa - the end of the Buddhist period
of lent that stretches from around July to October, calculated by
three full lunar cycles. This celebration marks the end of the rainy
season and prompts a massive procession of barges on the Chao Phraya
to carry robes to monks at the Temple of Dawn. The procession was
revived by HRH King Bhumibol in 1959 and has become a national event
of cultural importance ever since. Re-establishing the procession
required the rebuilding of several barges, some in their entirety
and the re-attachment of some mastheads previously kept in the museum.
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The cavalcade is truly massive and consists of a formation of five
rows of barges that is 1,110 metres long and 90 metres wide. The
52 vessels are propelled through the water by 2,082 oarsmen. They
proceed down the Chao Phraya from the Wasukri Royal Landing Place,
past the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, the Grand Palace and Wat
Po until they reach the Temple of Dawn, a distance of about three
kilometres.
Four royal barges are at the centre of the flotilla, including
the Anantanagaraj, carrying robes for the monks and Suphannahongse,
carrying His Majesty the King and other members of the Royal Family.
Lesser barges surround the royal ones in a protective frame as they
flow upstream.
When King Rama IX revived the procession of barges and the kathin
ceremony at the Temple of Dawn, a significant element of Thai culture
and history was preserved for future generations. Those who view
the procession see Thailand as it used to be and gain a little more
some valuable insight into the unique culture that this wonderful
country contains.
The Royal Barge National Museum can be easily reached by boat.
Take the Chao Phraya Express Boat and get off at the Rod Fai Pier.
Then walk down the street parallel to the railroad tracks until
you reach a bridge over the canal. Cross the bridge and follow the
wooden walkway to the Museum. It is open daily and there is a 10
baht admission charge.
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