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By Benjamin Malcolm
Chiang Mai has more than its share of markets and places to shop
- the ever-famous and carnival-like Night Bazaar, the food and flower
fest of Worarot Market and the craft shops towards Hang Dong and
Sankhampaeng. Few shopping areas have been more skillful in mixing
a sense of history, an aesthetic appreciation for architectural
beauty, and quality merchandise as have the myriad high-end boutiques
and gourmet restaurants on the east side of the Ping River in the
lesser-known area of Charoenrat Road.
There are an amazing number of places to explore on this short
stretch of road, barely a kilometre or two of winding pavement between
Nakornping Bridge and Nawarat Bridge. In all, just over twenty shops,
restaurants and other businesses crowd this area, creating a little
enclave of boutiques and specialty shops for those keen on expensive
souvenirs. Many have river frontage, using this feature to full
advantage, with dining overlooks and coffee areas jutting out toward
the flowing waters of the Ping River.
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One of these is "The Gallery," a combination of art viewing
area and restaurant that once hosted former U.S. First Lady Hillary
Rodham Clinton for Loy Krathong. According to the history sheet
provided to all diners, the Gallery building was built in 1892 by
a Chinese immigrant, who married a Chiang Mai woman and settled
into the area. The family home fell into disrepair until 1989, when
it was restored to its present state. The front building, which
currently houses an art gallery, was built in traditional Chinese
style in stucco with molded motifs. The rear area was re-built of
teak-wood in Northern Thai style. The critics have taken notice
of the beauty of the restoration work - it has received a handful
of awards including the 1997 "Beautiful Chiang Mai Award"
presented by the governor of Chiang Mai.
A step inside the foyer gives passers-by a chance to glimpse a
bit of everything in this historic building offers, including the
gallery, the dark wood bar of the restaurant and the bubbling stone
lobster tank, one of the choice entrees of the restaurant.
The Chinese influence of the Gallery is not an isolated aspect
of Charoenrat Road; rather, it reflects an overall trend. The epitome
of this trend, Ketkaram Temple, sits in the midst of all the shops,
opposite the platform to a metal footbridge (which offers an alternative
means of egress to the Charoenrat area over the river).
Ketkaram Temple, one of the lesser-known religious edifices in
the city, has a vivid history, which is explained in detail at the
entrance to and throughout the temple. A sign just outside the entrance
explains the temple's significance, including the presence of a
sacred "hair relic" within the main stupa. The exact date
of establishment of the temple is unknown, but the temple was known
to be a centre of ancient ceremonies performed to keep ruling princes
from harm. From the early Ratanakosin era, many foreigners (especially
Chinese boat merchants), took up residence in the area and the temple
remains a central gathering location for the Chinese community.
There is as much Chinese lettering as Thai inside the temple, covering
stone and woodwork; there is also a museum inside the temple grounds.
The temple provides a temporary respite for window-shoppers and
a relief zone from the passing vehicles. In the process of growth,
little attention has been paid to sidewalks, so traffic whizzes
agonizingly close to pedestrians along large portions of this stretch
of road.
One shop that passers-by would do well to stop at is "Sop
Moei Arts," in a riverside building known as the Elephant Quay
House. The speciality of Sop Moei Arts is the craft exhibits from
the Karen hill tribes of Mae Hong Son and the various baskets and
weavings of the shop are a collective effort of 10 different villages.
The effort to sell these products began in 1988 with the weavings,
expanding in 1992 with an extensive array of baskets.
There is a different appearance to these tribal outputs; keen eyes
will discern an individuality distinct from other "Karen"
products. This is intentional - a desire by the store management
to push the producers to excel and explore. Interested shoppers
are handed a two-sided sheet that explains the process of Sop Moei.
From that comes the following explanation behind the store's weavings:
"When it comes to our textiles we rarely produce faithful
reproductions of Pwo Karen fabrics; we leave that to others, and
Chiang Mai is awash with them. Ours is a different strategy, one
that calls for much greater dynamism from our weavers than that.
While we do employ international textile and fashion consultants
to fine-tune our programme, their brief is not so much to come up
with new designs as to teach the tribal weavers to look at their
traditional fabrics and to reinterpret them."
Similar thoughts follow about Sop Moei's basketry. Over 60 percent
of the net income from the shop goes to the producers. Some money
is also allocated to scholarships for Pwo Karen students from the
area. The store is jam-packed with material, and the back area is
curtained off, yet open for perusal.
The city recently refurbished a walkway along the river, which
begins at the footbridge and heads a little way past Nawarat Bridge.
There are benches, grass, and ample steps to lounge on. In the late
afternoon, kayakers ply the waters of the Ping River and fishermen
often walk the banks looking for the perfect spot to angle.
Other unique shops on Charoenrat Road include Lanna Cigar (Cuban
and other top quality cigars), Oriental Style (a high-end furniture
shop and restaurant), Vila Cini (Oriental textiles), Mei Wen Su
(Chinese antiques and furniture) and "Jam" Music Center
(musical instruments store). Antiques are one of the specialties
of the area and coffee houses seem to be sprouting up day by day,
offering yet more hiding places from the speeding cars and motorcycles.
Charoenrat Road - truly a discerning shopper's paradise.
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