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By Benjamin Malcolm
It's not hard to create a "best of" list of the north.
The difficulty is in choosing the categories. For people have a
host of reasons for coming here - whether it's to satisfy the need
for exercise and a desire to "know" the hill tribes with
a trek into the mountains and forest, to find the perfect ruins
or temple to explore, or simply to take advantage of the cooler
temperatures, mountains and other natural surroundings. The north
has a little something for everyone. It's in this spirit that the
following list was compiled - a little of this, a little of that,
a little of the best of what awaits any visitor to the north.
Best Place to Explore Nature - Doi Inthanon National
Park, Chiang Mai
The north is renowned for its natural settings and Doi Inthanon
National Park should be on any nature-lover's "must-see"
list. The self-described "Rooftop of Thailand," Doi Inthanon
is the tallest mountain in the country at 2565 meters and one of
the most spectacular in terms of wildlife, hiking, star-gazing and
bird-watching. It is THE place to go for bird-watching (there are
over 350 species here) and during the winter, the temperatures at
the higher elevations can dip into the minuses (my advice: wear
a hat and gloves and a heavy shirt if you head up to the summit
in winter). Halfway to the summit, off the main road, is the jumping
off point for the best hike (the Gew Mae Pan Trail) that takes you
onto the west slope through forest glade, field and along a rock-strewn
cliff path. The view of the surrounding countryside is one of my
favorites in Thailand.
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Best Northern Thai Food Experience - Second Floor of
Huan Soontaree, Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai is host to a number of excellent restaurants - Piccola
Roma, Oriental Style and Le Coq D'Or all spring immediately to mind.
But for a true Northern Thai cuisine experience, follow the left
bank of the Ping River north to Huan Soontaree for a true mix of
Northern Thai cuisine and Northern Thai soul courtesy of the owner,
renowned folk singer Soontaree Vechanont. Chefs offer only Northern
Thai (a blend of traditional and individual experimentation) and
Vechanont herself provides entertainment late in the evenings. Why
the second floor? From there, you can sit on mats on the floor and
gaze down at the crowded restaurant, the musicians and lazy waters
of the Ping all at once for a truly romantic and memorable experience.
Best Northern Temple - Wat Phra That Lampang Luang, Lampang
For sure, there are a bounty of temples to be discovered in the
north, in every province, from the Shan-styled rooftops of Mae Hong
Son to Sukhothai's ancient ruins. There is one historical temple,
however, that stands out even among these - Wat Phra That Lampang
Luang. My first impression when I visited the temple was of stumbling
onto an undiscovered royal palace. The temple literally looms above
everything else in the surrounding area, a massive elevated squared-walled
edifice which contains numerous buildings dating back to the 15th-century.
A pristine example of Lanna (Northern Thai) architecture, this complex
features some of the oldest and best-preserved wooden buildings
in Thailand. Visitors are free to peruse the faded remains of exquisite
mural paintings and males are free to enter a small pavilion which
acts as a camera obscura, magically projecting the inverted image
of the golden chedi (stupa) onto a sheer muslin curtain. It is surely
one of the more magical temples of the north, well off the beaten
path.
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Best Place to Find Some Peace and Quiet - Ban Rak Thai
(Mae Aw), Mae Hong Son
Are you looking for a little peace and quiet, a little place to
call your own in the midst of the mountains? Ban Rak Thai, or Mae
Aw, is the place for you, a little Chinese village tucked away in
the far reaches of Mae Hong Son on the border with Burma. It is
one of the smaller Chinese villages, a far cry from the more popular,
and more traveled, Mae Salong in Chiang Rai. To get there is relatively
simple - take a plane from Chiang Mai International Airport up to
the main city of Mae Hong Son, the province that goes by the nicknames
"Land of the Three Mists" and the "Switzerland of
Thailand." Charter a van up the winding roads that lead to
the little Chinese village of Ban Rak Thai, find a little bungalow
or shaded house on the side of the reservoir and then send the driver
on his way. Peace and quiet is now yours, with options to hike,
ride horses and get your fill of Chinese food and tea, or just sit
back and relax.
Province with the Best Mix of Northern Activities - Chiang
Rai
Mae Hong Son is too isolated and difficult to travel around in,
Chiang Mai is too spread out and the other provinces are missing
things that you'd like to see. The best solution is to head to Chiang
Rai. You can't go any more North than in this northernmost province
and it has it all - adventure trekking, an abundant diversity of
population (hill tribes, Shan, Chinese) and all number of easily
accessible and yet interesting locations to explore. Would you like
to go trekking? Head out to Mae Salong and begin your journey there.
Do you want to explore ruins and some history? Go to Chiang Saen
on the banks of the Mekong River and walk about the scattered remnants
of King Mengrai's ancient Lanna civilization. From resorts to guesthouses,
from history to scenery, Chiang Rai has the perfect mix of everything.
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Best Resort and Spa - The Anantara Resort & Spa,
Golden Triangle, Chiang Rai
Northern-bound travelers have a bevy of choice in regards to resorts
and spas. There are many clustered about Chiang Mai, hidden in the
forests far outside the walls of the ancient city. But for a truly
luxurious and unique experience, the best option is in the far north
on the banks of the Mekong River, at the newly refurbished Anantara
Resort & Spa, Golden Triangle. With its unique sense of style
(the only resort I know of that includes a mahout training course),
the five-star Anantara is a special get-away for the discerning
traveler. The choices are many - you can lounge at the edge of the
infinity-edged pool, heal your body and mind in the Mandara Spa
while you stare out at the mountains of Myanmar, dine at the resort's
superlative Italian restaurant, Baan Dahlia, or simply soak in the
gigantic two-person tubs located in each room. All in all, it is
the best choice for a romantic resort stay in the north.
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Best Bakery of the North - Love at First Bite, Chiang
Mai
I knew I was on to something special when I headed to Love at First
Bite in Chiang Mai. After all, in the space of one week, this bakery
had been strongly recommended to me by both an American and a Thai
friend. The owners, Jerry and Mattie Watana, spent years in the
U.S., and their experience shows in the bakery's products - an exquisite
collection of cakes, pies, quiches, cookies, and other sweets that
could well rival any other bakery in Thailand or for that matter,
overseas. Love at First Bite is located on the "other"
side of the Ping River from the downtown area of Chiang Mai. Patrons
can order their favorite pastry from the refrigerated display case
(I recommend the blueberry cheesecake) and a cup of hot coffee,
and then head out to the shaded garden area. Repeat as many times
as you feel necessary.
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